Vancouver, Rocky Mountaineer, Lake Louise, Banff

The flight to Vancouver was great with terrific views of snow capped peaks, glaciers & river valleys. Vancouver seems a nice city set on flat land but surrounded by mountains & ocean. Dinner at the very popular & trendy Cactus Club by the water.
In the morning we took a lift to the Vancouver Tower (too high & scary for me so I headed back down after a quick look), Anne took some photos. Then off to Gastown, the old historic part of town, with some really nice older buildings & a unique steam powered clock. Then off to "Fly Over Canada" a 3D movie flying across Canada with moving seats, water spray on faces etc - quite realistic & felt like you were there - really good fun & beautiful scenery. Then off to Stanley Park where we hired bikes & rode around for a few hours. A large, very pretty & scenic park right in the city. Bison balls for dinner then an early night.
At 6.15am we caught the bus to the station then all aboard the Rocky Mountaineer with the other exclusive 650 passengers. With our classy dome roofed carriage we can see it all. Things started slowly as we wound through the outskirts of Vancouver & then the local countryside before starting our climb into the mountains. The train cuts an amazing path along the banks of the Fraser River & later the Thompson River.

Rocky Mountaineer Views

The line cuts back & forth across the valley & the road as it winds its way up the valleys. Some of the bridges & drop off's are scary for someone scared of heights (ie me). We were surprised to see the dry & barren landscape as we approached Kamloops but the river continued to rage down the valley - a popular rafting spot for the adventurous. We were plied with copious amounts of beautiful food & drink all along the way.

Rocky Mountaineer Views - Tunnels

Rocky Mountaineer Views - more tunnels

Kamloops has a population of 90,000 & is situated on the banks of the Kamloops Lake at the confluence of the north & south Thompson River's. A nice little place & we wandered down to the park to listen to a live rock band before grabbing a light dinner & bed - dead tired after a long day.

From Kamloops Park

Another early start saw us back on the train at 6.30am & travelling through farmland along the Thompson River valley before skirting along the banks of the Shuswap Lake for about 30 kms. We then started to climb up multiple river valleys, through canyons & across amazing bridges before passing through the Lower & Upper Spiral Tunnels. The tunnels were built because the original line was too steep and are each about 1km long & turn about 240 degrees inside the mountain before emerging over 50 feet above where they entered. At one point the train runs directly across the top of the lower line. Remarkable! We then completed the last stage to Lake Louise with jaw dropping scenery all around.

Rocky Mountaineer Views

Rocky Mountaineer Views

Rocky Mountaineer Views

We are staying at the famous Fairmont Lake Louise with "that view" straight out our window (a little indulgence never hurt anyone!). After taking in the view with a walk around the grounds we dined at the Lake View restaurant before an early night (we're all tired out?)

That View - Lake Louise at Sunrise

A friendly squirrel - we have seen many

Next morning we rose early to witness the beautiful sunrise over the lake before heading off on a walk. We loosely planned a walk of about 15kms but ended up doing over 20kms. The scenery was again jaw dropping as we headed first to Plain of Six Glaciers lookout & then to the teahouse for hot chocolate.

Plain of Six Glaciers Walk

Plain of Six Glaciers Walk

Then onward & upward (there was some snow along the sides of the track) to the Big Beehive which sits almost vertically above the hotel - a hard slog to the top but magnificent views all the way - Anne had to take the photos looking over the edge of course.

Our welcome to the Big Beehive

Lake Louise & Chateau from the Big Beehive

Then down a steep zig zag track to Lake Agnes & teahouse for sandwiches before returning to the hotel. Enjoyed a beautiful cheese fondue for dinner then crashed.

Lake Agnes & Teahouse at rear

A leisurely start the next day saw us bussing to Banff through a thick smoke haze caused by forest fires. As a final indulgence we are staying at the Fairmont Banff Springs hotel - a truly magnificent hotel in a magic setting (apart from the smoke). Took the hotel tour to see some of the amazing function areas the checked out the rest of the hotel before meeting some old Aussie friends of Anne's from her Berrigan days for dinner. A pleasant night with a few cold frosties & lots of chat.
Woke to a thick smoke haze from the forest fires & health warnings to stay indoors? Eventually we braved the elements & went for a stroll around Banff checking out the shops, Bow Falls, Banff Springs Cave & Basin (hot springs), marsh boardwalk & Cascade Gardens. A pleasant day despite the smoke.

Smoke haze over marshes in Banff

Skagway, Carcross, Whitehorse

Caught the ferry from Haines to Skagway.

Bear cub near Haines

Bald Eagle near Haines

Travelled out to the historic town of Dyea - not much to see as ruins mostly gone but very interesting history. This was where many gold rush prospectors came before climbing up the Chilkoot Pass then travelling down the Yukon River to Dawson City - a mammoth task & they were required to carry a year's supply of rations, so had to cross the pass multiple times in atrocious wet & cold conditions?? We walked a little of the track to 'get a taste'. Even without packs it would be tough. We also visited the Slide Cemetery where the remains of some 70 people who perished in a snow slide in 1898 are buried. Then to Lower Reid Falls before dinner at the Skagway Brewery Saloon.

Dyea Road

Woke to fog & light rain so decided to cancel our planned walk & instead drive across the White Pass - couldn't see much at all due to thick fog (but we'd already seen it on the train so no biggie). Fog cleared when we reached Canada for a pleasant drive into Carcross where most things were shut down due to "Discovery Day" holiday? Checked out the Emerald Lake (very pretty & probably even better without rain & wind) then the Carcross Desert (a weird site in this wet place).

White Pass

White Pass

Carcross Desert

Then off to our lodging for the night at the beautiful "Inn on the Lake" near Whitehorse - still raining but who cares, this is great.
Woke to a flat tyre (had been a slow leak for a few days). No big problem as only 60km from Whitehorse where we are to drop off. Rang rental company & they came out with a truck with a new car & took our old one away - talk about overkill for just a flat tyre?? Headed off fro a walk to a lookout over the lake - a lovely walk through the forest with heaps of mosses, fungi etc.
Next stop, Miles Canyon & fish ladder on the Yukon River near Whitehorse. An amazing volume of water coming through the canyon & hydro dam (quite speccie). The ladder is set up beside the dam to allow spawning salmon to get above the dam. Saw some huge salmon heading up the ladder.

Miles Canyon

Whitehorse Fish Ladder

Off to the airport for a flight to Vancouver & the next stage of our holiday.

Carmacks, Dawson City, Chicken, Tok, Haines Junction & Haines

After a sad goodbye to our hosts at Frances Lake we headed for Carmacks. Along the way we saw even more mountains, rivers & lakes - they sure know how to do 'em up here - but this time they added a gorge at Lapie River.

Lapie Gorge

The mighty Yukon River runs through Carmacks & is truly impressive.

Yukon River

After a brief walk around Carmacks the next morning we headed for Dawson City. With short stops at Five Finger Rapids on the Yukon (a mass of swirling water around rock pillars), Moose Creek (a quaint little lodge & cafe) & Gravel Lake where we saw tundra swans & their young.

Tundra Swans on Gravel Lake

Dawson City itself is something else, on the way in the obvious signs of mining remind me a little of Coober Pedy but the town is full of buildings designed in the style of the late 1890's (some in excellent condition & some sinking into the ground - they experience temperatures consistently below -30 in winter so the ground freezes then thaws in summer so house foundations tend to move about, rise & sink - bizarre - when the temp is -60 cars struggle to start, your breath freezes & your eye lids freeze shut - & some say they love it here?).

Our hotel in Dawson City

Dawson City

It was great to just wander about & look at the buildings & the mighty Yukon River running right beside the town. Most streets are just dirt or mud with board walks for pedestrians.
In the evening we went on a guided tour of the town - the Aussie gold rushes were in hot & inhospitable places - here they froze to death trying to cross high passes or frozen rivers in freezing weather &, like Aussie prospectors, most made no money. Our guide also told us some amazing stories about some of the characters up here (eg the guy who built a raft from scraps, including an old couch on top & used a tarp for a sail to get to Dawson City. He arrived sitting on the couch & fishing for his dinner. Then pitched a tent on board & lived on the raft.). After the guided tour we enjoyed a night at "Diamond Tooth Gerties" gambling hall & music hall/cabaret - lots of fun.

Diamond Tooth Gerties

A little tired the next morning but headed to the amazing Tombstone Territorial Park for a few walks in this stunning park. They had received their first snow for the season the previous night so all looked great (albeit a little cool at 6 degrees).

Tombstone Territorial Park

Tombstone Territorial Park

Back to town for ribs at the Downtown hotel accompanied by an incredibly talented & entertaining pianist - he plays for a few hours every night for drinks & tips - he was necking a long neck beer bottle between songs - quite a character.
Next morning we boarded the car ferry across the Yukon & headed off along the "Top of the World Highway" - not sure of the derivation of the name but we certainly felt on top of the world as the road tracked along the top of a ridge with views for miles on both sides of endless mountain ranges.

Top of the World Highway

After crossing the border back into Alaska in rain & thick fog & 6 degree temperatures, we reached the town of Chicken (supposedly named after the Ptarmigan which is common in the area but locals couldn't say or spell Ptarmigan??).

Chicken

The road was a mixture of smooth gravel, pot holed gravel & bitumen in varied condition but the great views remained when the fog cleared. We ended up in Tok, Alaska for the night with Mexican for dinner.

Tok to Haines Junction

The weather warmed up to 22 degrees for the following day's drive to Haines Junction which was again spectacular though the road was a bit ordinary with lots of roadworks where we needed to follow the pilot car through the works at 20kmh. Most of the day we travelled along river flats (Tanana, White, Donjek Rivers) with mountain ranges on either side & Kluane National Park on our left nearly all the way. Snow capped peaks appeared around every corner & we followed the banks of Kluane Lake for around 70kms.

Kluane Lake

Haines Junction is an unusual little town with a statue of a mountain with local animals on it - knicknamed The Muffin (cos that's what it looks like). After-dinner drinks at the local bakery with a live bluegrass band - great.
The journey from Haines Junction to Haines was another spectacular drive with much of the scenery too close & large to fit the camera - again following river valleys with high mountains (many snow capped with glaciers) &/or lakes on either side & the very wide braided Chilkat River valley over the last few klms.

Haines Junction to Haines Highway

Travelled out to Chilkoot Lake & watched a mother bear & two cubs feeding on salmon. Halibut & chips overlooking Portage Cove rounded off a great day.

Skagway, Carcross, Watson Lake & Frances Lake

The alarm went off at 2.45am this morning (may as well have stayed out for the night & saved on hotel bills?) Had a 30 min taxi ride to the Juneau ferry terminal to catch the 5.15am ferry to Skagway via Haines. Of course the sun was already up & the ferry ride was another sensory overload with beautiful waterways surrounded by high mountains, snow & glaciers. It was fascinating watching the ferry pull in to the wharf - it's a big ship but they parked it very gently.

View from Ferry

Checked in to our hotel which is right in the town. The light switches over here are all upside down (up is on?) & the showers are different everywhere & hard to work out (this one requires you to pull the tap outward then press the button down in the bath). They also love BIG utes.

Yep that's the real size

Had a stroll around Skagway - a really touristy place but with a nice vibe. Had dinner at Red Onion Saloon (an old brothel) then went to Eagles Hall to play roulette & blackjack with fake chips followed by a vaudeville show about an old Alaskan outlaw - a fun night & I won a garter with soap?? for being the biggest winner?? Checked out the salmon run in the Pullen creek in Skagway - there were thousands of good sized salmon.

Skagway

Next stop, the White Pass train to Fraser - this train line was cut through steep cliffs, across valleys & through tunnels - some scary drops over the side for me but yet more spectacular scenery.

Upcoming bridge & tunnel on White Pass Train line

Entering the tunnel - White Pass train

From Fraser to Whitehorse we took a bus which stopped for a break at Carcross, a tiny settlement where it takes ages to make a coffee. So long, in fact, that we came out of the cafe to see our bus heading off down the road. We then proceeded with the comedy routine of running down the road yelling & waving (Anne comfortably out sprinted me - more urgency me thinks??). Fortunately a good samaritan driving by saw our dilemma & chased the bus to get it to stop. The driver & other passengers had been oblivious, not even noting our unattended back packs left on the seats.
Next morning picked up our hire car & headed further into the Yukon. A very pleasant drive to Watson Lake through forest, with the usual mountains, rivers & lakes. Watson Lake is interesting - not a lot to see but they have a Signpost Forest with about an acre full of poles covered in all manner of signs from around the world - bizarre but fun & interesting.

They also have some novel hotels such as "A Nice Hotel (with a touch of class)" - yes that's the hotels name.
More driving took us to Frances Lake where we are staying 3 nights at the Frances Lake Wilderness Lodge (no road access - nearest road is 10 kms & the boat ramp 20kms, limited solar power only, no wi-fi or phone reception, no running water etc). Our host, Martin, picked us up at the boat ramp. The location is truly picture postcard material & our hosts Martin & Andrea & chef Christina made us very welcome (we are the only guests). Good home cooked meals & more boat, canoe & walking adventures. The trees, mosses, lichens & other plants are amazing - it's like walking on sponge. So peaceful & picturesque & the view from our lodge window is just stunning.

Our cabin

View from our cabin

Anne's new favourite bird is a loon.

Loons on Frances Lake

The lake out front of our cabin freezes over in winter (except for a few deeper spots, access is then by ski's or snow shoes. Martin & Andrea have travelled extensively in Australia & prefer remote areas with mountains (they loved Tassie).

Walking at Frances Lake

Walking at Frances Lake

Walking at Frances Lake - Caribou Lichen (like snow)

Well, off to bed now - life is tough!!

Juneau and Un-Cruise Adventure

Up at 3.45am to catch a flight to Juneau. The rain has arrived - they did say this is a wet place. Had a wander around Juneau which is a really nice town albeit a bit touristy, then headed out to Mildenhall for a walk to see the glacier & waterfall.

King Crab & chowder for lunch in Juneau

Next stop, our briefing for the cruise then "all aboard" the good ship "Safari Endeavour" with the 81 other passengers. Our cabin is small but cosy with nice big windows. The crew (36 in all) & passengers are all friendly & life is good. The cruise takes us on a circuit which takes in Glacier Bay National Park, Icy strait, Chatham Strait, Endicott Arm, Fords Terror & more. The itinerary is subject to change according to weather (mainly wind since the liquid sunshine (rain) is ever present). We enjoyed bush walks ashore, kayaking, skiff (rubber duckie) runs into remote coves, yoga, massage & hot tubs on board. We have seen orca's, glaciers & ice bergs up close, waterfalls, puffins, 15,000 foot mountains dropping straight into the fjords with mountain goats & dall sheep clinging to the rugged cliffs, seals, sea lions, otters, grizzly's, bald eagles by the dozen, salmon by the hundreds, massive star fish & jellyfish and, of course, humpback whales by the dozen. The trees (hemlocks & spruce predominantly), mosses, lichens, fungi are wonderful.

Bartlett Cove walk

Bartlett Cove walk

John Hopkins glacier

Glacier Bay

The food is top class & we have qualified environmentalists, a marine biologist & a bunch of passionate & enthusiastic guides aboard (plus visits from a ranger & some whale researchers). Weather is a little damp (we are told this is normal). Wow! What a week (insert multiple superlatives here).

Beartrack Cove

Kayaking in Beartrack Cove

Steller Sea Lions

Inian Islands

And did I mention the rain? Rain coat, water proof pants &  Alaskan sandshoes (gumboots) are the norm around here.

Muskeg - Inian Islands

Bushwacking - Inian Islands

Tokatz Bay - Baranof Island

Bald eagle

Bushwacking - Port Houghton

Dawes Glacier

Endicott Arm

After a fond farewell & exchange of addresses we disembarked after an amazing week. With a day to kill in Juneau we headed up the tram car to the lookout then did a 3.5 hour walk to Gold Ridge with stunning views over Juneau, the mountains & fjords.

Gold Ridge walk Juneau

Another early start tomorrow as we head for the Yukon.