Vancouver Island

Started our visit to Vancouver Island by catching the ferry which leaves about 300 metres from our hotel but requires a 4km drive to get to the loading ramp???

From Horseshoe Bay

Landed at Nanaimo which was much bigger than we expected (83,000 population), then drove through farm land & rainforest across the island to Tofino on the west coast. Stopped for a walk in Cathedral Grove which is a magnificent stand of Douglas Fir - huge trees in a dark wet rainforest. Stopped at Port Alberni which is closer to the east coast than west coast but sits on a very long narrow inlet from the west. Also had a walk on Long Beach on the west coast - good, but not as good as Aussie beaches & was cold & windy - though some hardy souls were surfing (in wet suits). Tofino town is a busy & touristy little place.
Rained steadily all night & continued throughout the day - boy what a lot of rain! Toughed it out to go for a walk around Tofino & also took a beautiful walk through the rainforest at Ucluelet lighthouse with coats, hats, scarves & brollies - still beautiful.

Ucluelet Lighthouse Walk

Ucluelet Lighthouse Walk

Then drove back to Nanaimo - water gushing from mini waterfalls spouting from the cliffs all along the road. Arrived Nanaimo to clearing rain & met Anne's distant rellie Sonia & her husband David & son Adam with whom we are staying for 2 nights.
Went for a drive with Sonia, David & Adam to Pipers Lagoon Park in warm sunny weather then into the docks area of Nanaimo for lunch (yummy mussels) & a look at the older parts of town. Rain returned as we headed back home. Lots of cheerful talk over wines & beers.

Pipers Lagoon Park

Decided to head toward the north of the island & boy is it a big island (460 kms long & 80 kms wide, population over 760,000 & highest mtn 2,195 mtrs - similar to Mt Kosciusko). A pleasant drive through mountains & along the coast. Stopped at the quaint Telegraph Cove.

Telegraph Cove

Telegraph Cove

Then on to Port Hardy for the night. The town showed signs of 'end of season' with a number of places closed & all a bit quiet but a pretty place. Awoke to more rain which continued on & off all day - but not too cold. Checked out Port McNeill, Port Alice (beautiful spot), Sayward & Elk Falls near Campbell River (another suspension bridge which I nearly conquered?) before stopping for the night at Salmon Point.

Port Alice

At Sayward we watched the timber yard in action with all types of strange machines with arms & levers like praying mantis lifting, pulling & tying big logs together before dropping the bundles down a ramp into the inlet where strange little boats like dodgem cars manoeuvred the logs around. Kept us entertained for quite a while.

Sayward timber yard boat

Heading south for Victoria we stopped off at Chemainus which is world famous for its murals which were very good. A very quaint little town.

Chemainus icecream shop

Chemainus mural

Stopped for lunch at Goldstream Provincial Park which had some huge cedar trees. Next stop Craigcarrock Castle in Victoria, built by a wealthy coal baron in 1889 - a beautiful castle with great views over Victoria. Next we headed to the Governor's residence & gardens - really beautiful mix of formal & informal spaces over a wide area with sea views across Juan de Fuca Strait to the USA. Finally a walk through the very large Beacon Hill Park (a bit like a botanic gardens) to the harbour & 'olde towne' part of Victoria city. The harbour is really nice.

Legislative building in Victoria at night

Today we headed west to Sooke, a nice little town on the south coast. Some very pretty little inlets, beaches & forest made this another pleasant drive. Lunch at Point-no-Point restaurant looking across Juan de Fuca Strait to the Olympic Mtns in the USA.
Started our penultimate day with a drive around the beach suburbs of Victoria - some beautiful homes, gardens & settings. Next stop the famous Butchart Gardens. Despite no inherited green thumb (a hereditary glitch?), I had to be impressed with these stunning & beautiful gardens with many plants still flowering & others exhibiting fall colours - it was brilliant.

Butchart Gardens

Butchart Gardens

Butchart Gardens

Butchart Gardens

Butchart Gardens

We then had a wander around the seaside town of Sidney before boarding our ferry back to the mainland in bright sunshine (the best weather since before we landed on the Island). A smooth crossing between the stunning islands in the Strait to our final night in Canada.
Had a brief look around the southern parts of Vancouver & the Fraser River mouth before heading to the airport for our long flight home - 2.5 hours to LA, 3 hour stopover, then 15 hours to Melbourne - joy.
So ends a truly amazing holiday! Mountains, rivers, lakes, glaciers, waterfalls, wildlife, beautiful forests, gardens, friendly people, trains, planes, boats, cars & amazing walks.

How can we top this for our next holiday?

Icefields Parkway, Jasper, Malign Canyon & Lake, Mt Edith Cavell, Clearwater River Valley & Whistler

Next morning we headed off on the famous Icefields Parkway (from Lake Louise to Jasper). The road winds along the valley between amazing snow capped mountain ranges - there are many beautiful lakes, rivers, glaciers & mountains along the way with breathtaking views around every corner.

Icefields Parkway

Icefields Parkway

Peyto Lake, Parker Ridge, Athabasca Glacier & Columbia Icefield, Tangle & Sunwapta Falls were highlights.

Peyto Lake

We took the very touristy Icefields bus tour onto the glacier surface which was pretty good if you ignored the other 10 buses of people.

Columbia Icefield Bus

Arrived Jasper for a much needed sleep.
Jasper is a real adventure town with heaps of outdoor shops for hikers, mountain bikers, climbers, rafters etc. Also lots of accommodation but because we chose the Folk Festival weekend we had to shift to Hinton (about 80km away) for our next few nights accommodation. Started the day with a small herd of elk crossing the road then headed back to the Icefields Parkway to see the amazing Athabasca Falls (amazing that such a big river can funnel through such a small gorge). Then off to the Valley of the Five Lakes walk - 5 truly stunning lakes set in forest & surrounded by snow capped peaks.

Anne at Lake 3 of the Five

Finally headed to Hinton in the northern rockies - another amazing drive with yet another type of mountain scenery - stark grey slopes with very little plant life.
For a change of pace today & in beautiful sunny weather we took a guided tour & walk to Malign Canyon, Medicine Lake, Malign Lake & Moose Lake (but no moose). Our guide was great & we saw a bull elk & a flock of big horn sheep beside the road in the first 10 minutes. Malign Canyon was another deep & narrow ravine with the river at the base (easier to hear than see) & Maligne Lake was another stunning lake with exceptional views. Next we took a long winding drive up Mt Edith Cavell (named in honour of a British nurse in WW1). At the top was a lake with glaciers hanging form the cliffs thousands of feet above - quite spectacular. A landslide into the lake in 2012 caused a tsunami type wave down the valley closing the road for 2 years - signs warned to keep to the tracks & away from the lake.
A slow start today to plan for the last few weeks of our holiday. Then headed back to Malign Lake for a boat cruise to Spirit Island where they take all those beautiful touristy promotion photos (actually only an island on rare occasions when the lake rises - usually a peninsular) - truly is a stunning view.

Maligne Lake

Fall colours on scree - Maligne Lake

Fall colours are much in evidence along the roads & lake sides with bright yellows, orange & red all contrasting against the various shades of green.

Fall colours

Took a relaxing dip in the Miette Hot Springs then headed back through some heavy rain for some sleep.
Drove the Hinton to Jasper road for the last time, the fall colours seem even brighter today (perhaps last night's rain helped). Checked out the Fairmont Jasper Lodge (another amazing place built by the railways) then headed to Patricia & Pyramid Lakes - more beautiful fall colours.

More Fall colours

Finally listened to the music from the local folk festival for a while - not bad but the crowds were pretty small.
Awoke to 4 degrees & a light dusting of snow on the surrounding mountains - beautiful. Headed out of Jasper toward Whistler. Stopped at a few waterfalls with massive volumes of water surging down the rivers (we should look at exporting some of this water to Aust??). Took a walk along the Robson River trail to Kinney Lake another stunner to match Lake Louise, Morraine Lake etc.

Kinney Lake

The Robson River surges down an endless series of rapids beside the trail. The top of Mt Robson was mostly covered in cloud but peaked out for a very brief showing at one stage on the walk (it's the highest mtn in the Canadian Rockies at 3,954 metres). Finally to Helmcken Falls Lodge, a beautiful lodge in the Clearwater River valley, for the night.
A heavy frost over the golf course outside our window this morning. First stop Helmcken Falls, these 141 metre high falls are quite spectacular creating quite a mist, next Dawson Falls, not so high but very wide, huge volume of water & cascading over rocks, finally Spahats Creek Falls dropping in two tiers down sheer cliffs into the valley way below (biggest drop 75 metres).

Dawson Falls

We then hit the Sea-to-Sky Highway from Pemberton to Whistler - another amazing road carved through the mountain ranges.
Today Anne headed off without me on the Peak to Peak gondola ride. This gondola runs from the top of one mountain, across the valley to the top of the next mountain covering a span of 3 km between poles & reaches a height of 436 metres above the ground - definitely not for me!!! Anne says it was great & the views great despite the mist & snow. She also saw 4 hoary marmots.

Peak to Peak Gondola - Look closely. Yes those tiny spots on the cable carry 28 people each

I had a quiet stroll to Lost Lake - very pleasant and at ground level. We then had coffee while watching dozens of mad, muddy, mountain bike guys come flying down the hill over jumps etc. Finished with a stroll around town & dinner at the Mongolie Grill - choose your own ingredients & sauce then the guys grill your food on a giant hot plate - yum.

Mongolie Grill

Started with a walk to nearby Nita & Alta Lakes - very pretty. Then a quick visit to the 2010 Winter Olympics ski jump - they're totally mad? Saw a small black bear eating right beside the road - he just ignored us & kept eating - only 4 metres from the car.

Our friendly Black Bear

Then headed for Horseshoe Bay where we'll catch a ferry tomorrow to Vancouver Is. Stopped at 2 waterfalls along the way & also visited the Capilano Suspension Bridge Park for more thrill seeking for Anne (I tried to cross the bridge but too many people rocking the bridge for me?)

Many Glaciers, Going-to-the-Sun, Cranbrook, Sinclair Gorge, Johnston Canyon, Morraine Lake & Larch Valley

Bye to Waterton as we head to the USA & Glacier National Park.

Maskinonge Lake near Waterton

Saw some bison near the exit to the park & also some cranes & an osprey. Staying at the beautiful 100 yo Many Glaciers Hotel.

Many Glaciers hotel

Lots of wood beams, creaking & uneven floor boards & the strangest shower operation yet (they even have instructions on the wall with 8 steps to turn on & 3 to turn off - very quaint).

Shower instructions

Weather a bit overcast & cool but headed off on a walk to Red Rock Falls - a nice gentle walk with the statutory rivers, lakes & high mountains with snow.

Red Rock Falls

As a treat this time we had a huge bull moose sitting right on our walking track - needed to head off into the scrub to get around him - though he just kept munching his grass & ignoring us. Quite a site up so close - boy they are big!

Hi there! Our friendly moose.

Saw another bull moose at a small lake on the way back plus some mountain goats. Oh, & the water falls were very pretty. There was also a bear on the hill above the hotel when we got back.
A morning walk around the Swiftcurrent Lake out front got us started. Was a bit chilly (4 degrees) but a pleasant walk with beautiful views of the lake & surrounding hills shrouded in mist - snow forecast for tonight?

Swiftcurrent Lake

Then headed off for a drive over the Going-to-the-Sun Road which winds its way up & over the rockies. A spectacular piece of engineering (1st built in 1933) with tunnels, bridges & cuttings into the cliff sides with vertical drops to the valleys way below. A little scary for me but "thankfully" there was heavy fog at the top so didn't have to see all the drop off's.

Going-to-the-Sun (with fog)

Going-to-the-Sun Road (no fog)

The mountains, valleys & waterfalls are stunning. Then past a few nice little holiday towns & lakes plus a walk along Avalanche Creek surrounded by huge Western Red Cedars. Spent the night in Whitefish which is a reasonable size & located on the banks of the Whitefish Lake & River.
Kept awake 'til 4.30am with revellers in the room above. Woke to a cold & wet morning so had a slow start before heading back to Canada. Caught glimpses of the snow capped peaks through the rain as we arrived in Cranbrook, another fair sized town. Visited the railway museum to keep out of the rain & it was fantastic. They are restoring a whole bunch of old carriages from the early 1900's to 1970's - some are really grandiose affairs. They even had a model train chuffing through giant snow capped peaks & tunnels. The rain is forecast to continue for a few more days with temperatures close to zero??
Another cold & overcast morning. Planned to drive straight to Banff but after a stop at the Invermere tourist info office we changed plans slightly & travelled via the Sinclair Gorge & over Kootenay Crossing, stopping at the beautiful Olive Lake, Paint Pots & Marble Canyon along the way. Despite cold & some rain these stops were amazing. The road & river run through the narrow & deep Sinclair Gorge.

Sinclair Gorge (the river runs deep down between the road & cliff on the left)

The paint pots are weird pools of water with a greeny tinge & ochre coloured soil/mud. The Marble Canyon was very narrow & deep with water raging through the canyon. Tonight back in Banff & hoping for a clear day to see the new snow.
Our wish is partially granted with clouds moving rapidly across the scenery but plenty of views of the new snow. Started with a gondola ride up Sulphur Mountain - clear when we started at the bottom but snowing on top which was very pretty but meant the views were coming & going between the clouds. Then headed to Banff Springs hotel to see the views we missed before through the smoke haze.

View from Banff Springs without smoke

Finally to Johnston Canyon - another amazing gorge with multiple waterfalls & an amazing path hanging off the edge of the canyon walls - a bit scary but worth it.

Johnston Canyon (path top centre)

Back to Lake Louise without smoke ended a cool day.
Off to Morraine Lake the next morning for a walk up to Larch Valley. The parks people advised that only groups of 4 or more with bear spray (capsicum cans) can take this trail (grizzly season) so we needed to find at least 2 more hikers. After a short wait we joined a young couple from Calgary who are both research graduates at the uni - one researching bats & the other spider monkeys. A very nice couple & interesting to hear about their research.  A fantastic walk through fir & spruce forest with views down to the aqua waters of Morraine Lake before cresting the ridge & entering the beautiful Larch Valley. The Larch have just started to change colour for Fall (Autumn) & have a beautiful bright yellow/green colour which looked great against the other green trees & the snow which had fallen over the past few days - just wonderful.

Larch Valley

The walk continued above the tree line across a snow covered meadow to another lake at the base of Sentinel Pass where we were supposed to see the "ten peaks" - which we did in stages through the clouds & light snow. The climb up the pass looked too steep & slippery with the snow cover so we had a snack & headed back. Didn't see any grizzly's.

Larch Valley below Sentinel Pass

Finished with a walk along the lake shore & up to the lake lookout on the morraine pile.

Morraine Lake

Another great day.

Calgary, Rockies, Drumheller, Waterton

Picked up our rental car & headed off to Minnewanka Lake & Stewart Canyon (very picturesque) then the more scenic Highway 1A toward Calgary.

Lake Minnewanka in smoke haze

The smoke haze continues to be heavy with the fires in Washington State still out of control & other fires in Montana & California. Rain is needed badly. Gradually left the bigger mountains behind as we entered large areas of meadow & some farms in more rolling hills as we approached Calgary.

Canmore near Calgary

Some newer housing estates on the outskirts of Calgary filled a few hillsides & spoiled the views. Will be spending a few days here with friends, Guy & Paul , whom we met on the Mont Blanc walk a few years ago. We were made very welcome by Guy, Paul & Maya the dog & enjoyed a few local beers, wine & BBQ salmon for dinner.
Started the next day with a walk with Paul (Guy had to work) to Nihahi Ridge above the Elbow River - a steep climb (8kms & a rise of 350 metres). Nice scenery but the smoke haze still covers much of the view which should include rows of mountain ranges. A pleasant walk anyway. Then back for caribou dinner with Guy & Paul.

Nihahi Ridge (there are rows of mountains behind the smoke)

Anne & I headed into the big smoke of Calgary (it really was very smoky) the next day to see the sites. Highlight's included: Prince's Island Park on the Bow River, Peace Bridge, Calgary Curling Club, Thi Thi Sub's for lunch (yummy Vietnamese food in a bread roll) & Plus 15 Walkway (an above ground walkway which meanders through buildings & across streets throughout the city - so you don't have to go outdoors in winter (minus 40 degrees) to get around).
Next day, with the smoke haze easing we went on a stunning walk to the top of Tent Ridge in nearby Kananaskis Country - a tough climb (11km with 780 mtrs elevation gain) with strong gusty winds  at the top (thought we'd be blown off the ridge) but well worth it for the amazing views. Even the drive was great & finished with a beer whilst looking at the 3 sisters in Canmore.

View from Tent Ridge walk

Paul & Anne climbing Tent Ridge

Descending Tent Ridge (that's us over there)

Our next stop was the fascinating town of Drumheller out on the prairie (or 'badlands') east of Calgary. For the first time we are seeing no mountains?

Farmland east of Calgary

They have found many dinosaur fossils in the area which has led to dinosaur statues on every corner, shop & house & several dinosaur museums. The town is in a canyon created by the Red Deer River which has carved many amazing shapes & 'hoodoos' in the surrounding valleys. Horseshoe & Horsethief Canyons' both dropped abruptly from the surrounding prairie into amazing contorted valleys. The area also supports farming, coal mining & oil drilling.

Horseshoe Canyon

The Hoodoos

After saying goodbye to Guy & Paul we headed south to Waterton Lakes National Park. Another beautiful drive through rolling green farmland with huge mountains as a backdrop - some threatening clouds but no smoke. Hooray!
After a night of strong blustery winds we awoke to even stronger winds with gusts to 120kph (at least no smoke). The Lake was full of white cap's & waves & mist stirred up by the wind - quite spectacular! Checked out Cameron Falls then headed out for a few easy walks at Lake Cameron & Red Rock Canyon. A total of about 8kms but not too many hills. We saw 3 separate bears along the way today which was great.

Red Rock Canyon

Winds eased but clouds building with some light rain - but being hardy souls we headed out on a 10.4km walk with elevation gain of 460m to Bertha Lake. Another magnificent walk with views back over Waterton Lakes, some beautiful forest & waterfalls. Bertha Lake was very pretty but the wind had again increased & rain started so we headed back down.

view of Waterton Lakes from Bertha Lake walk

Bertha Lake walk

In the afternoon we took a leisurely & beautiful 2 hr cruise on Lake Waterton to Goat Haunt on the US side of the Lake. Very relaxed custom post but you need a passport etc to continue along any of the hiking tracks past here.

View from Goat Haunt

So ends another great day.